The new-for-2017 Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Full Open 38.00 depends on a basic, yet amazing formula. Stage 1: take a unique estimated Zenith El Primero chronograph. Stage 2: eliminate its dial and tweak a couple of subtleties likewise and Step 3: appreciate. It was almost two years prior that I looked into the El Primero Original 1969 – one of only a handful few watches I can say I altogether appreciated and miss wearing – and I was interested to check whether this “full open-ized” piece will be an impressive other option, or in the event that it misses the mark by attempting too hard.
As such, permit me to keep this survey somewhat more limited and more direct, as this Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Full Open 38.00 (reference 03.2153.400/78.C813) has basically a similar case, development, tie, and fasten as the Original 1969. One final highlight explain: the Original 1969 has been ceased, however the Chronomaster El Primero 38mm (reference 03.2150.400/69.C713) is a minutely refreshed form of that piece that is right now accessible from Zenith.
Quick Run-Down On Specs
The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Full Open 38.00 comes in a 38mm wide and 12.45mm thick case, wearing an adequate 100m of water obstruction and coordinated to an odd, 19mm wide tie. Both the front and back element sapphire gem windows, with the front highlighting double side AR-covering over its boxed and somewhat domed precious stone element.
The development inside remaining parts the El Primero 400 Automatic, an exemplary cycle that falls near the first El Primero type – mind you, it is currently behind a dim colored precious stone that makes it somewhat more hard to acknowledge under some lighting conditions. It is, obviously, a fully coordinated chronograph type, composed of 278 sections, 31 jewels, and an equilibrium wheel that beats at the much-adored 5Hz recurrence, while power save runs more than two full days at around 50 hours. The section wheel, level grip, programmed winding, and a lovely development and sub-dial format make it a genuine classic.
Notably, the El Primero 400 is additionally as noisy as it’s ever been, particularly now, with the open dial, that permits sound to go through the case without breaking a sweat. In a calm room, it is perceptible when on the work area at around two feet away, and when I lift my arm close to my head – striking my Rodin’s The Thinker present – I can hear it tick-tocking at its berserk and great 36,000bph. Some will cherish the El Primero for that, however others will need to realize that it’s a watch you can hear in calm conditions – not something you’ll likely make out in the boutique, while attempting it on.
The El Primero – Transformed
The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Full Open 38.00 is another reference for 2017, and keeping in mind that there have been various varieties of the El Primero with various degrees of skeletonization, this is the first I can review to be a 38mm-wide variation with a fully eliminated dial. It is additionally here where we should take note of that this isn’t actually a skeletonized watch, as that term is generally used to allude to developments whose plates (and perhaps some different parts) have been fully dug out in order to bring however much straightforwardness into the movement’s structure as could reasonably be expected. Praise to Zenith for utilizing the right term and considering this a Full Open and not an El Primero Skeleton, despite the fact that this piece appears to incorporate a couple of pieces that seem to have been adjusted to make the dial-side of the El Primero additionally entrancing to look at.
The outcome is one bonkers looking El Primero that comes with huge loads of freshness and energy to it – yet in addition a couple of issues that merit referencing. Let’s dive in and see all the advantages and disadvantages of this striking, new, and alluring cycle of a particularly adored chronograph.
There can be no uncertainty to the goodness factor of the El Primero Full Open – it’s a striking watch, with a full horizon of wheels, small springs, cams, plates, and openworked sub-dials – it’s one hell of a view, and furthermore something that you’re exceptionally unlikely to get exhausted of at any point in the near future (or ever, besides). Regardless of whether one loves or aversions full open watches is down to individual inclinations and taste, however that doesn’t mean a watch without a dial can’t be tastefully done.
For a “full open” watch to stay classy, it should stay decipherable – for example keep up its center usefulness as a watch – and this cycle of the El Primero works effectively at all that. The hands remain absolutely enormous, abundantly wide, and excessively long, as the moment hand comes to throughout the moment track on the very fringe of the dial. What kind of witchcraft is this? Why can’t all watches resemble this?
Not sure in the event that you have seen, however the hour and moment hands are basically precisely equivalent to the ones on the steel Rolex Daytona 116520 ( inspected here ) – I’ll eat my cap if they’re not from the specific provider. The lone distinction to note is in the length of the white lume strip in the middle, and that the hands in the Rolex Daytona are in white gold. Two notorious watches rock fundamentally similar primary hands – and, think about what, I wager neither of them would have kept going this long on the off chance that they had measly, hopeless, small hands.
Equally enormous, wide, long, and blocky applied files go with the principle hands beautifully, adding weight and substance to a dial in any case committed to tiny and intelligent parts. This makes for an excellent harmony between the delicate full open appearance and the manly, ground-breaking tasteful of the first El Primero – incredible work there.
A fun element is the Zenith El Primero logo imprinted on the underside of the front precious stone – I as of now love the way idealists won’t abstain from making themselves look strange again by flipping out over something this. Truly, it adds a great deal of profundity to the dial that doesn’t have any space at all for this logo on it in any case. I comprehend that the open dial gives a lot of stuff to marvel at, yet trust me, a couple of months into claiming a watch (any watch) it is these unforeseen subtleties that you will develop to appreciate. Last, however not least, if you’re so against it but rather in any case like the watch, I’m sure the precious stone from the strong dial form will fit just fine.
The date stays at the 4:30 position, yet is currently shown by a skeletonized circle over a red square – there is even a little red triangle that focuses at it that isn’t present on the picture of the watch that Zenith as of now utilizes on their authority site. I can truly value seeing a major brand like Zenith ending up being adaptable and making such changes in accordance with a plan even after the first dispatch, with an end goal to additionally develop clarity and client friendliness.
In synopsis, readability stays OK for a watch with basically no dial. On the off chance that your close sight is poor, at that point you’ll experience difficulty perusing the sub-dials, yet that comes more from this being a 38mm wide watch with three sub-dials, than from that point not being a strong setting behind the sub-dial hands. A pleasant touch is the means by which the edges of the sub-dials speak to the first sub-dial shades of the El Primero, coming in at silver, dim, and dim blue – much the same as the enormous hands and files, these likewise help save the El Primero look.
My most loved quality of the Original 1969 was its right on the money extents – taking a gander at that little, 38mm wide watch with its enormous sub-dials was a desert garden to my eyes in a world so full of visual and stylish contamination. In the metal and on the wrist, it was just right. I can’t force myself to feel the equivalent about the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Full Open. At certain areas of the dial, to my eyes at any rate, there gives off an impression of being an excess of room, as over the plane of the sub-dials. At that point, the moment track on the fringe is altogether too thick and articulated, regardless of whether, after a nearby comparison, I could perceive how this rib ring really is extensively smaller than on the strong dial version.
As I have noted above, I have come to like all the different dial elements – the hands, the awesome assortment of uncovered development components, the enormous files, the sub-dial outlines, etc – yet once set up all, they just don’t accumulate as nicely as they do on the strong dial adaptation. I’m prepared to concede that possibly I simply like the Original 1969 variety to an extreme; and I additionally can’t stress enough that the manner in which the extents and generally speaking plan of a watch works is for everybody all alone to choose – and there’s no finer method of doing that than by attempting it on.
If you miss the typical history portion or the one on wearability and further subtleties of the development, may I recommend that you look at my survey of the Original 1969 variety, which, as I said first and foremost, is basically a similar watch, in any event to the extent those credits are concerned.
Overall, I genuinely needed to see the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Full Open 38.00 in the metal, as I was interested how an open dial El Primero would show up and wear, in actuality. Generally speaking, I can say that it, until now, places the outright greater part of different chronographs in its section to disgrace on account of its beautifully planned case, incredible wearing comfort, nicely executed development (both on the back and the dial side) and… it’s a 38mm wide El Primero, which is difficult to beat. Really awful this solid bundle comes at a fairly steep price.
The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Full Open 38.00.00 (reference 03.2153.400/78.C813) is estimated at €9,600 or around $11,200. zenithwatches.com
>Model: Chronomaster El Primero Full Open 38.00.00 (reference 03.2153.400/78.C813)
>Price: $11,200 USD
>Size: 38mm wide, 12.45mm thick
>Would analyst by and by wear it: Sometimes.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Fan of open-dial observes yet needs it in a more modest, more wearable measured watch.
>Best normal for watch: The 38mm I believe is as yet the best size for the El Primero. Great job by Zenith on getting the “full open” subtleties directly on the dial.
>Worst normal for watch: Proportions could be improved as that of the Original 1969 is elusive here, in spite of the case being the equivalent. Or maybe perceptible development might be irritating to some.