Fratello and The Massimo Osti Archive teamed up to share the most loved watches of the late originator and architect of C.P. Company, Stone Island and different brands and the creator of article of clothing coloring, the warmth receptive and reflective jacket.
Garment engineer Massimo Osti (1944 – 2005) made inventive and game-changing garments brands like C.P. Company, Stone Island, Boneville and later Massimo Osti Production and Left Hand. Osti was path relatively revolutionary with items, for example, a warmth receptive jacket (1987) and a reflective jacket (1991). Today, his visionary technique has become the norm for a complete industry. Brands like Stone Island and C.P. Company are more famous than they were ever previously. Their yield is as yet dependent on Massimo Osti’s mystical blend of key-elements: material advancement, extra-standard shading approach, military-and utility motivation, extraordinary meticulousness and cutting edge knits.
Massimo Osti was as a visual originator who tried different things with prints on garments during the 1970s. At the point when his attempt outs got well known, he coincidentally stumbled into planning garments. Examination and advancement were his principle drives; he never called himself a style architect. In private, Osti likewise cherished vehicles, cruising vessels and watches. He adored watches so a lot, that he even made a watch watcher in the sleeve of one his most notorious plans, the C.P. Company Mille Miglia ‘goggle’ jacket: a defensive window on the left sleeve, situated at the wrist, to permit brief look at one’s wristwatch out of nowhere. (Note that Osti was left-given and wore his watch on his correct wrist). A smaller adaptation of this watch watcher has now become C.P. Company’s image sign.
Massimo Osti – The watch collector
In the book titled “Ideas From Massimo Osti”, composed and compiled by Osti’s companion Daniela Facchinato, Massimo is portrayed with a steel Rolex Submariner Date, holding the first, green-edged Stone Island identification between his fingers. Osti possessed a couple of Rolex watches, however he was a watch collector in any case. Mrs Facchinato recollects Massimo’s adoration for observes well overall. “Massimo wore a watch each day, he cherished his watches. There was no arrangement behind collecting them, yet he just purchased the ones he preferred and never let them go”. Fratello is pleased to introduce and examine Massimo Osti’s watch collection interestingly, envisioned here for certain show-stoppers from the Massimo Osti Archive.
Watches from the Massimo Osti Archive
After his passing in 2005, Osti’s watches stayed in the family. For this article, the family carried the watches to the Massimo Osti Archive, the actual arrangement of Massimo Osti’s work and the blend of his extraordinary innovative way. It has over 5.000 pieces, shifting from Osti’s most punctual models to 60’s Russian spacesuits, and from article of clothing coloring lab plunges to restrictive print designs. The broad texture and social library were collected over a time of 30 years of work, as a team with more than 360 texture companies and labs. The file is as yet worked by Mrs Facchinato and girl Agata Osti and for this article, it was the photoshoot respectability. All watches were expertly shot by Mrs Facchinato, who is a photographic artist by calling. She was responsible for most of the fine art for the advertising of Osti’s brands during the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s, some uncommon books for C.P. Company, in addition to the presently additionally sought after C.P. Magazine.
Tissot Automatic Navigator (1950s)
Massimo Osti shirt (1999)
One of Massimo’s watches is a Tissot Navigator. This watch was created in the mid 1950s, as ‘wristwatch for men with all inclusive time’. Widespread time watches were not made in arrangement production at that point, and the available examples were consistently hard to peruse. In this way, Tissot needed to make the principal mass-delivered general time watch, which needed to have great legibility as well. To accomplish this, Tissot planned a watch with just one moving component to show all inclusive time: a focal turning circle, showing the names of 24 world area (and accordingly 24 time-regions). A fixed 24-hours ring encompassed the pivoting circle, completes the dial. The plate pivots completely in 24 hours, moving the world areas (time-regions) by the numbers on the 24-hour ring. In this way, as time passes by, the area names pass the hours number on the 24-hour ring. At some random time, the time can be found in each possible time region. One should just know the legislative halls per time-region. A different framework showed neighborhood time in hours, minutes and a general hand. The pusher at 2 is utilized to change the neighborhood time. Case materials incorporate 14-ct gold, gold-filled, matte stainless steel. It has a programmed guard movement. A quartz rendition showed up in 1980. Massimo’s watch appears to miss the fixed external bezel, with its 12-hour scale, separated into steps of two hours. The white is shirt is from the Massimo Osti project (1999), in which the client makes his own form of the available plans with a computer terminal in the retail location. Along these lines, no shops brimming with garments altogether estimates, yet a collection to fit and afterward adjust it independently, customized. Osti’s objective was to decrease the expense that comes with production and circulation, and in this manner diminish the price of the articles of clothing without affecting quality.
Le Salève chronograph (Blum & Ostersetzer)
Stone Island Ice jacket second era (1989)
The vintage Le Salève chronograph is an attractive, unique case. There isn’t a lot to discover about the brand and there is no comparative watch to discover on the web. It is by all accounts an item from Swiss, most likely 1940s, yet that is a speculation. The dial on Massimo Osti’s example looks like porcelain, the case appears to be gold plated. These watches were not costly and had premise movements, but rather they were somewhat enormous. The length of the hands recommends that these are not unique, since they don’t reach to the moment track. The chronograph included as long as thirty minutes in the dial at 3, the dial at 9 is a persistent little seconds hand. The enormous, focal chronograph hand, checks seconds yet in addition pivots along a tachymeter scale.
According to the book Swiss Timepiece Makers 1775 – 1975 by Kathleen H. Pritchard, La Salève was one of the watch marks that approached from Blum & Ostersetzer from Bienne, yet in addition situated in Geneva. The company sent out watches to Italy and addressed Longines for Switzerland and Italy (Milan). The company utilized different brand names, Alba Watch Co., Chronometro Polare, Ecco, L’Ora, Fidelitas, F.O.B.O., Le Chrysanthèm and Le Salève.
The jacket in the foundation is a Stone Island Ice jacket from the subsequent age. The Ice jacket is one of Osti’s incredible advancements: the texture is heat receptive and changes tone because of changes in temperature. This jacket is included in the book Ideas From Massimo Osti, section Ice Jacket. It is a ski jacket that changes tone from red to brown when the temperature drops. It has a down liner, detachable with a dazzling rope-framework, and a coordinated baclava in the hood
Baume et Mercier triple calendar moon stage chronograph (1950s)
Book ‘1000 Miglia, viaggio nella memoriabook’ (Daniela Facchinato, 1990)
This is an extremely nice and presumably strong (red) gold Baume et Mercier triple calendar watch. It shows day, date and month. Date is pointed at in the external file of the dial, by the enormous, focal bolt formed hand. Month and day are shown in the little rectangular windows. The watch likewise includes chronograph capacities (checking as long as thirty minutes), a little seconds dial and a magnificent moon-stage. The Osti-family can’t educate more concerning this watch, yet dependent on its looks, it should be from the 1950s. Some call it ‘the level haul moonphase’. Watches this way – 1930 to 1950’s chronographs in gold – were famous during the 1990s. The movement is obscure, however it very well may be Valjoux 730 movement. It is a quite enormous watch for now is the ideal time, around 36mm. All around, this watch is an amazing thing, and very uncommon too.
The watch is shot on the front of the uncommon end table book 1000 Miglia, viaggio nella memoria, about the 1988 Mille Miglia release, that was supported by C.P. Company. Massimo Osti needed to make a visual excursion, a memory in pictures, reflecting the remarkable atmosphere of this exemplary vehicle race, captured by his better half, Daniela Facchinato. Another watch of Massimo’s is imagined on a unique C.P. Company Mille Miglia jacket, that was made for the members of the 1988 Mille Miglia.
Leonidas Triple Calendar Moon Phase
Original C.P. Company Mille Miglia jacket (1988)
This is a fascinating watch, from an intriguing brand. The Leonidas triple calendar moon stage watch has an ETA 1100 movement. It has little corrector focuses in the side of the case, you can quickly change the day of the week, the month, the date or gradually turn the moon stage plate. The triple calendar shows the month, day of the week and date; the dark red bolt focuses at the date in the blue external list. The triple calendar and moon stage complications are added as a module. It is possible, that the second’s hand has been supplanted. Initially, the date-hand needed to hang out in a look. Hence, those hands were somewhat thicker or hazier shaded, with a bolt or sickle molded point. On Massimo Osti’s watch, both date and clear seconds hands have a red bolt, which is in opposition to how it was planned from a useful viewpoint. Leonidas made more watches with a complication during the 1940s and 1950s, with steel and gold-plated cases, differing in size. Osti’s watch has a distance across of around 35 mm, which was large around then. These affordable vintage watches for certain complications stay collectable. Leonidas was consumed by Heuer in 1962. Here’s an article by my colleague Balasz Ferenczi about cool and affordable watches .
Rolex pocket watch
Unbranded gilet or multi-pocket vest from Massimo’s reference archive
Pocket watches named ‘Rolex’ are puzzling. There isn’t a lot of data about it. The loner brand itself has nothing to say about it and doesn’t make reference to stash watches in the short chronicled outline on their site. It can’t be resolved if this is a real Rolex, yet the watch had a porcelain dial and looks neat.
Rolex 6085 Oyster Perpetual ‘Bubbleback’ in pink gold (1940s)
Early C.P. Company jacket in fleece (1980s)
This chronometer-ensured Rolex Oyster Perpetual ‘Bubbleback’ addresses a significant advance in Rolex history. The word never-ending alludes to ceaseless motion: a self-winding watch that never stops as long as you wear it. This was a tremendous stride ahead in the realm of watchmaking. The principal Bubblebacks showed up in the mid 1930s and they were just delivered for approx. twenty years. Most of the early Bubblebacks were ‘time just’, yet later models likewise highlighted date. The first had auxiliary seconds, yet later models had a general seconds hand. After 1935, Rolex began creating the Bubbleback in more sizes; a women model was presented in 1941. The case (32-33 mm) was made of Steelium (stainless steel), Rolesor (half gold, half steel) and pink or yellow gold. Steelium and Rolesor are Rolex manifestations, licensed in 1931 and 1933. There were a couple of case style varieties and various dial plans in dark, pink, white and two-tone, 24-hour military-style and even a dial with blended Roman & Arabic numerals.
Osti’s red gold Bubbleback highlights a champagne shaded dial with Roman numerals and a 60 seconds scale on the external edge of the dial. During the 1980s and early-mid 1990s Bubblebacks were profoundly pursued and collectable. In those days, Rolex Daytonas were not so much as a thing. In the previous 20 to 30 years, other Rolex watches turned out to be more collectable, and the moderately smaller Bubbleback dropped out of elegance. In 2017, Rolex master James Dowling composed an article about the Bubbleback in The Telegraph, titled ‘The legendary watch the world failed to remember’. Massimo Osti’s watch is likely a reference 3131 from the mid-1940s, yet is difficult to relate to just this image. The ‘swiss made’ with additionally a ‘FAB SUISSE’ on the dial would by and large show that is was conveyed to the French market.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual ‘Bubbleback’ in steel (1940s)
C.P. Company leather jacket with woolen cover lining (1980s)
Massimo Osti probably loved the Rolex Bubbleback since he had two of them. As expressed above, there has been an assortment of dials during its production years. This Bubbleback has a steel case and a military-style dial with strong Arabic numerals on the even hours and a scramble all other hours. The watch highlights iridescent markers and hands, and a general seconds hand. There’s likewise a 60 seconds file in the external edge of the dial, separated into steps of 5. Bubblebacks are the absolute most punctual wristwatches available by Rolex, made around the 1930s. The movements were created by Aegler as a team with Rolex. What’s more, on the off chance that you at any point can’t help thinking about why these watches were nicknamed Bubbleback: the rear of the watch has an arched shape. Massimo’s steel is probably going to be a reference 2940 in steel from the mid-1940s and it has radium glowing hands and dial. The watch is envisioned on a 1980s Massimo Osti show-stopper for C.P. Company, combining leather with a fleece liner, which is indeed a cover. On the off chance that you spread the coat, the brand name is sewn in the sweeping pattern.
Rolex GMT-Master 16700 (1989 – 2001)
Stone Island Reflective Jacket (1991)
Robert-Jan compiled an authentic timetable of the world’s most wanted GMT watch here on Fratello: The Rolex GMT-Master and Master II . As per this timetable, the watch has at long last ventured out of the shadow of its plunging sibling. As such: the Rolex GMT-Master has likewise become a profoundly sought-after watch. Rolex built up the watch during the 1950s, as a team with Pan American Airlines, at the time the world’s biggest aircraft. PanAm began flying intercontinental and not long after likewise overseas, from New York to London and Paris. Travelers cherished the time investment funds, yet in addition languished fly slack over the first run through, due time region distinction. PanAm was stressed over the impacts on their pilots and requested that Rolex build up a watch that could keep time in double cross zones. Rolex went ahead o-Graph and redesigned the movement with an extra 24-hrs driving haggle a 24-hr hand. This new travel watch had four hands (hours, minutes seconds and the 24-hrs hand) and a turning bezel with a 24hrs scale. This setting enabled timekeeping in double cross zones. The watch kept home time, while the physically set 24-hrs hand kept objective time. The name GMT-Master comes from Greenwich Mean Time.
Massimo Osti’s Rolex GMT-Master with sapphire precious stone is a reference 16700. This watch was likewise called the Last Master as it was the last GMT Master. It was ended to keep the GMT-Master II in the Rolex collection. Additionally, it was the last tritium GMT-Master. Due to the shades of the bezel, this blue-red form is likewise alluded to as ‘the Pepsi Rolex’ (there’s additionally a Coke rendition, with a dark red bezel).
Osti’s GMT-Master is introduced here with one of his own magnum opuses: the Stone Island Marina Reflective jacket from 1991. The material of this jacket contains little circles of glass between its strands. The material was at that point being used as reflective taping on outfits of police, fire fighters and nighttime laborers, however Massimo envisioned a complete jacket in this material. The impact of this item was otherworldly. It was mysterious and dazzling in 1991 when this was introduced. Additionally, the Reflective Jacket was very costly and not affordable for everyone. However, it was a daily existence more secure, for example in night traffic on a bicycle or bike or when tossed over the edge into the haziness of the ocean. Within the Reflective Jacket is made of webbed material, similar to a net. Throughout the long term, the Reflective jacket changed fit as a fiddle and Osti made winter renditions, with detachable goose down liners and even reflective jeans. The Reflective jacket turned into a Stone Island exemplary; the brand actually creates reflective articles of clothing and even carried the reflective idea to different materials like weaves. The ones made by Osti, have become sacred goals, exceptionally pursued by collectors, precisely like certain Rolex watches. In any case, they have become incredibly uncommon. The Massimo Osti Archive has less than 5 reflective jackets. Different brands concocted reflective jackets, more than 25 years later.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona 6265 (1971 – 1988)
C.P. Company J.P Sartre coat (1990-91)
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona has been associated with vehicle hustling since the absolute starting point. What’s more, even today, the watch is sold as ‘a watch destined to race’ and ‘a definitive apparatus watch for those with an enthusiasm for driving and speed’. The principal Cosmograph Daytona (6263) was dispatched in 1963 and was created until 1969. The Dayton transformed from this rendition into the current chronograph, which is available in a few varieties. The name Daytona comes from the Daytona perseverance race that is held since 1966 on the Daytona International Speedway in Daytona Beach, Florida. Massimo’s Rolex Daytona is a 6265 manual breeze type 727 (Valjoux). The word ‘swiss’ at 6 on Massimo’s dial, demonstrates that it is a service dial. It was most likely supplanted in the last part of the 1990s or mid 2000s. From 1998, the (first) tritium dials of these watches were supplanted by the luminova dial during a Rolex service. The 6265 came in numerous new sorts of dials. The ‘Red Daytona’, like Osti’s, was exceptionally well known. A couple of different dials were made distinctly for an extremely brief timeframe, and these Daytona-forms are among the most uncommon and most costly available today.
The C.P. Company J.P. Sartre coat is an example of Osti’s wide advantages and motivations and how he Ostified his motivation into truth be told another item by improving the first idea. Not just military garbs or utility vests could motivate Massimo, yet in addition garments people wear in every day life. At the point when he went over an image of the French scholar Jean-Paul Sartre, Massimo preferred the ‘casual elegance’ of Sartre’s jacket. He duplicated the fundamental attributes and upgrades the coat into a 2.0 form, adding elastic covering, protected cushioning, emery brushing for the cotton and net covering. He adds capacity to the structure and makes a completely new look with his developing materials and combinations. The principal adaptations were produced using sheepskin with leather completing or cotton with elastic fleece completing (elastic fleece is an Osti-created material). Different collections included refreshed varieties of the jacket.
Rolex SeaDweller 1665 MK2 Rail Dial (approx. 1979)
Stone Island Ice Jacket Camouflage (1990)
Rolex contributed widely to the advancement of the waterproof watch and the improvement of the jumping watch. Their savvy system of purchasing licensed thoughts frequently gave them a head start. Add to this, Rolex’ own inventive methodology on watchmaking and the outcome must be a remarkable item. Initial step was the Oyster case, yet numerous different obstacles must be overcome. From the crown to the back and the glass – everything must be airtight shut under expanding tension. Rolex introduced their Submariner in 1954 as “the jumper’s friend”. As per James Dowling’s book, it was ‘an unusual larger than average watch with a half of the globe gem’. The primary Submariner (6204) was tried up to a profundity of 10.335 feet (3.150 meters), joined to the outside of a plunging vessel. An outline of the Rolex Submariner’s history can be found here .
During the 1950s, the Submariner remained at the premise of the making of the Sea-Dweller. At the point when better motors, vehicles and interstate expressways expanded the fuel request violently, at any rate in the United States, homegrown oilfields were not, at this point satisfactory. In the wake of having fueled WWII, these were genuinely depleted and oil companies began to look further and needed to bore further – seaward! The new boring profundities accompanied a few new challenges. The pressing factor at more profound profundities was one of them. For jumpers in any case, however this problem was addressed with submerged decompression tanks or plunging chimes, where gasses could be inhaled out. In any case, watches like the Submariner couldn’t release the gas that had sneaked in under the enormous tension submerged. At the point when pressing factor diminished, in a jumping ringer, for example, gasses inside the watch extended, yet couldn’t get out in light of the amazingly solid development of a Submariner. In this way, the gas left the watch through the most vulnerable connection: the glass. This flew off the watch under high tension, with an enormous blast and power. A dangerous circumstance in a decompression tank with the size of a couple of mobile toilet units. The French jumping company COMEX requested that Rolex team up on the answer for this problem. They made a Submariner with a single direction gas get away from valve and the problem was no more. In 1971, Rolex presented the 1665 Sea-Dweller: A Submariner with a fortified case and the world’s first helium valve.
Massimo Osti claimed two Sea-Dwellers. The most established Sea-Dweller (with more yellowish patina on the dial) is a reference 1665 from roughly 1979. The arrangement of Massimo’s watch gives off an impression of being a Mark II (collector’s language) with a purported ‘Rail Dial’, where the chronometer text lines are adjusted in the middle and the space between the words is hence nonstop on the two main concerns. Daniela Facchinato: “There is a fascinating story to tell about this watch. A companion and colleague once gave Massimo this steel Rolex for his birthday. Sooner or later, Massimo took a gander at it and chose to silver-plate it. He went to the Rolex-reseller, who was stunned. “Impossible”, he said. Be that as it may, Massimo needed to attempt it at any rate and gave the watch to a companion craftsman and requested that he silver plate it. The companion disassembled the watch and put it in a silver shower. The outcome was excellent. The silver has a sensitive sparkling, it changed and got a “utilized” investigate time. Like denim or leather. So interesting, on the grounds that this is by and large how he managed his items. He needed them to have a pre-owned look, visible changes by utilizing it“.
The jacket in this image – Stone Island Ice Jacket Camouflage, field jacket plan from 1991 – is a feature in Massimo’s vocation and really has a connect to the Rolex in the feeling of the capacity to change. The main ice jackets changed from one tone into another tone, monochrome. This jacket has a camouflage print: three or four tones that change into one with an adjustment in temperature. To accomplish this, the plan group stayed at labor for 15 days straight. Article of clothing coloring – one of Osti’s down evolving developments, that gave each article of clothing its own one of a kind colouration – was applied to this complex jacket. In the first place, each piece was printed with the camouflage design, at that point each jacket was article of clothing colored. Thus, each piece of clothing had a one of a kind shade, that changed over the long run, while all jackets changed from multichromatic to monochromatic when the temperature changed.
Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 tritium (1988 – 2008)
Stone Island jacket Formula Steel ‘Lupa’ (1994-1995)
Massimo’s other Sea-Dweller (additionally with tritium dial) has reference 16600 and was in production until 2008. No one knew whether it was stopped for acceptable or simply on hold for reasons unknown, until it was reintroduced in 2014 as a 116600 , with artistic bezel. The dark jacket where the Sea-Dweller rests is an uncommon one, found in the Massimo Osti Archive in 2010 by me. Despite the fact that Osti had demonstrated to be totally unpredictable – and accordingly continually amazing – this jacket stood apart in some way or another. Perhaps part of his last collection for Stone Island, this parka was made of Formula Steel, a lightweight high-determination hued nylon material and Stone Island standard during the 1990s.
The article of clothing looks rather easy from the outset sight, similar to a less is more form of past N-3B, yet then this severe hide lining snarls at you. Hide that ends up being that of a wolf, and it isn’t just in the hood! The whole jacket is wolf hide lined. Massimo made a reversible piece of clothing of it so it could likewise be worn as a hide coat… Reversible jackets were one of Osti’s reoccurring ideas. ‘A reversible side can a material amazement or new capacity’. The birthplaces of these double face jackets can be followed back to for example chasing dress of the 1960s, with a camouflage side and a high perceivability side. Osti utilized both practically and stylishly, yet consistently with a sharp eye for the element of difference. This dark jacket is evidence of that and simultaneously an in-your-face, overly warm winter tool.
Thank you Balazs Ferenczi and Sacha Davidoff for assisting me with the names and numbers. Likewise a major gratitude to Daniela Facchinato and Lorenzo Osti.
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