Striking the fundamental equilibrium to be an effective dress chronograph isn’t simple. Free brand Parmigiani Fleurier makes a few amazing models (like the Toric Chronograph that Prince Charles wore to the regal wedding) comparable to or surpassing contributions from peers like A. Lange & Sohne, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, and others. Frequently, the dress chronos that are amazing are stratospherically valued. In any case, with the refreshed in 2017 Tonda Métrographe , Parmigiani Fleurier has a passage level contribution that involves an honestly specialty region, yet compensates open-mindedness.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe resembled a much needed refresher for me. Right now, it’s extreme for me to get amped up for most chronographs out there. The class is characterized by an excessive amount of utilizing of history, tedious plan, or the gigantic bunch of watches that are falling flat to escape the gravitational draw of the Rolex Daytona. Trimming it down to dress chronographs, the alternatives are considerably more restricted. While I will talk about the Parmigiani FleurierMétrographe as the last generally, it would be an insult to not compare it with extravagance chronographs by and large since the $12,000 value places it decisively in the domain of pieces like the Daytona among others.
That cost isn’t modest by any norm, however the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe fills in as a passage to the brand that is related with a lot pricier watches that regularly arrive at six and seven figure pricetags.
With on the web and web-based media publicity, there are not many “concealed privileged insights” in the watch world however the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe’s deft combination of configuration, case completing, and meticulousness leave me considering not many companions. Leave it alone said that I realize the tasteful is polarizing and it’s conceivable that a greater number of individuals may even abhorrence it than like it, however I’ll cheerfully order myself as shockingly enchanted and dazzled following a month with this unconventional chronograph.
ABOUT PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
Before I get into the Métrographe explicitly, it merits examining Parmigiani Fleurier as a brand. Established in 1996, it’s young when compared to a portion of the antediluvian fabricates that can be viewed as Parmigiani’s friends. The standing for breathtakingly fabricated cases and developments has charmed knowing gatherers because of crafted by one man. Author Michel Parmigiani is a genuine imaginative visionary and the monetary sponsorship of the Sandoz family has permitted Parmigiani to work without the external pressing factors that generally come with financial specialists, umbrella aggregates, or shareholders.
I trust Parmigiani Fleurier produces under 6,000 watches for each year. At the point when you compare that to something around 50,000 for Patek Philippe or near 1,000,000 for Rolex, one genuinely gets a feeling of how boutique of a brand Parmigiani truly is. Be that as it may, Parmigiani Fleurier’s vertical coordination underway (on account of the Sandoz family, obviously) has brought about a gathering of five offices in Fleurier, Switzerland. As a general rule there are a few top-level brands (which will stay anonymous) that gloat “in-house” cases, dials, and components however source from Parmigiani. All in all, he’s not pursuing patterns or greater sales.
Parmigiani Fleurier possesses a 75% stake in Vaucher, the assembling that makes developments for Richard Mille among others, with Hermes asserting a 25% minority stake. This relationship has made it so the cowhide ties on Parmigiani Fleurier watches are Hermes. I inspected the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe on the arm band, however having dealt with one on the tie, they do feel probably as high caliber as you’d expect.
In expansion to developments done at Vaucher, there are four different offices in Fleurier, Switzerland that make the vertically coordinated Parmigiani Fleurier produce, which is formally known as Manufactures Horlogeres de la Fondation (MHF). Quadrance et Habillage is where all the parts of the dial are done, for example, printing, staining, fitting files, among all other littles detail that goes into it. Les Artisans Boitiers (LAB) is the case making office, Atokalpa SA makes pinions, gears, escapement components, and some different parts. At last, Elwin SA centers around the littlest of parts like equilibrium shafts.
THE PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA MÉTROGRAPHE CASE IN CONTEXT
Something that annoys a great deal of watch aficionados is the point at which a brand simply pounds the life out of an assortment. Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Hublot, Panerai, and a couple of others are extravagance watch marks that are basically inseparable from a solitary watch line or style. At times this is uncalled for, as with JLC, yet Audemars Piguet could simply change their name to Royal Oak at this point.
On the other hand, for a brand that makes not many watches every year, Parmigiani Fleurier has many particular and very much created lines. The Tonneau-molded Kalpa line has some prominent chronographs, for example, the Chronor which has a development done in gold that is amazing in photographs and stunning face to face. The Ovale Pantographe pieces have probably the most intriguing and unconventional hands on any watch, period. Furthermore, Tonda, which generally means “round” in Italian, is the greatest reach from Parmigiani. Clearly, these watches all have round dials and incorporate pieces like the straightforward 1950 which is their entrance level dress watch just as the Calendrier Annuel (that is Annual Calendar in the event that you required the translation).
Of course, the Bugatti co-marked watches like the $300,000 Type 390 are probably the most absurd and inventively noteworthy watches I can envision. Truly, I can’t go into it all here yet investigate these in case you’re not as of now familiar.
My point here is that Parmigiani Fleurier in general has a different group of work just as an exceptionally high expectation to absorb information, in any event, for prepared watch lovers. Were it not for pieces like the Métrographe and the somewhat less expensive time-just Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950, Parmigiani would unfortunately be such a gatherers just brand, that it would be unimaginable for admirers with a financial plan to draw in with it.
The month I went through with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe was set apart with such countless minutes where I just appreciated the case, drags, and hands on this watch. In case you’re taking a gander at extravagance chronographs in that $10,000-$15,000 territory, I’d beg you to check whether there’s a close by boutique and attempt the Métrographe on.
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA MÉTROGRAPHE REFINEMENTS & UPDATES
I wasn’t the greatest fanatic of the past age of the Métrographe , which was delivered between 2014 when it was presented and 2017 when this refreshed variant was delivered. The date window appeared to needlessly shoehorn its way through the 6 o’clock chronograph sub-dial, and now has discovered a vastly improved home over the brand logo at 12 o’clock. The unavoidable, Cracker Barrel serving measured slathering of lume on the chronograph subdials that make a figure 8 was another confounding decision.
I am happy that a brand like Parmigiani Fleurier, which can be viewed as protected, altered and updated the Métrographe. Luckily, these arrangement breaking problem of mine were helped. There were different changes made, for example, the expansion of a tachymetre scale (which I can manage without) and more modest hour markers which don’t make the dial look so crushed any longer. Indeed, even with this change, the sub-dials actually appear to be excessively little for the dial.
THE PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA MÉTROGRAPHE CASE
Another change from the active model is that the case was marginally thinned down from 12.2mm to 11.7mm. Not all that much, yet slimmer is in every case better. This puts the Métrographe directly between the Rolex Daytona which is 12.2mm thick and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph which is 11mm thick.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe’s drop-molded hauls are quickly attractive, bending around the wrist. The drop-formed tois a stylish mark of the brand and one that I acknowledged pretty much every time I put the watch on for the month or so I wore it. Since the steel case is 40mm wide and the drag to-haul is just 46mm, the Métrographe is a lot more modest than I’d normally like, however the extensive carry width of 24mm unites it all. Wearing the watch on the arm band was non-debatable for me, as the tie simply scales back the entire piece a lot for me.
The right half of the uneven case has the two incorporated, oval-formed pushers on one or the other side of the crown. Parmigiani Fleurier kept the pushers short which I’m generally upbeat about on the grounds that I will in general wear a watch nearer to my wrist and hitting chronograph pushers are a lovely common annoyance.
There is almost no bezel here which can in any case look excessively sensitive and befuddled on a chronograph, particularly with a particularly noticeable arm band. The case is determinedly not consistent because of the enormous, adapted hauls that fundamentally have their own free character. Taking a gander at the watch face straight on, the case and drags cooperate while as yet making a polylithic plan that features the detachment between the two.
Of note, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe is water-impervious to 30m, so don’t swim with one.
THE PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA MÉTROGRAPHE TITANIUM & STEEL BRACELET
For me, the discussion about the case can’t actually push ahead without examining the wristband. I genuinely found that the Métrographe on arm band and the Métrographe on the cowhide tie are very nearly two distinct watches with entirely unexpected identities.
The drags take into consideration this moderately little watch to wear well on my 7.5 inch wrist without looking and feeling small. It may not merit expressing since it’s so clear from the photographs, however the arm band fortunately tightens. The 24mm carry width is the thing that permits the wristband to add some visual haul to this generally humbly estimated watch. For comparison the Rolex Daytona and Omega Speedmaster Professional each have a haul width of 20mm. You’ll ordinarily discover 24mm haul width on watches a lot greater than the Métrographe, for example, the 46mm Breitling Navitimer.
When I previously put the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Metrographe on my wrist and shut the butterfly fasten arm band, I was somewhat shocked at how light it was, at that point immediately acknowledged why that is. The wristband has cleaned steel end joins which manage the cost of stylish consistency with the case, yet the enormous focus joins are all silk completed Grade 5 titanium. I for one regularly favor a steel case to a titanium one since I’m one of those individuals that appreciates some weight and haul on my wrist however this blended steel and titanium wristband is simply fantastic.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus has what is my number one wristband, however the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is likewise almost great. When considering brands with greater large scale manufacturing numbers, Rolex makes the best wristbands out there. This arm band isn’t on a similar level as these, however I love that it summons a similar inclination that there is no better home for this wristband other than the watch it is appended to. Taking a gander at the profile of the watch, the sides of the end joins reflect the drop state of the hauls which is a detail that put a bow on how satisfied I was with the bracelet.
A LOOK AT THE PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA MÉTROGRAPHE DIAL
The Métrographe is accessible with a dark or white dial, the last of which is somewhat more formal. I knew from the earliest starting point that I needed to audit the dark dial on the wristband, so there wasn’t a lot of discussion about that.
I recently referenced the dial enhancements from the last age Métrographe, yet I need rehash my complaint about the how the sub-dials look small. All things considered, I truly like the choice to supplant the seconds sub-dial with a twofold track running seconds dial (this was appeared in the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Chronor Anniversaire ) that gives a new look with regards to most chronographs with their elaborately homogeneous, consistently measured sub-dials. Alongside the enormous hour counter at 6 o’clock, the outcome is an atypical chronograph dial that I am enamored with. The figure-8 at the chronograph sub-dials at 6 and 9 o’clock is currently substantially more inconspicuous, with the ‘8’ framed by raising the zone that makes the shape. Beforehand, this was finished by lume which, once more, was simply not incredible in my opinion.
I discover tachymeter scales to be minimal squanders of room, however for this situation the watch needs the expansion of something energetic. Else, it would be excessively “dress” with regards to a dress chronograph. The fine concentric hover designs around the hour markers just as in the sub-dials are finished utilizing an exceptionally fine pursuing device and add some truly necessary visual surface and assortment to the dial without being as unavoidable as a tachymeter scale.
Parmigiani Fleurier realizes that given their creation numbers, they can face the challenge of adoration or disdain tasteful choices – like the triple date opening, which fortunately has been moved from 6 o’clock to 12 o’clock. In principle, I generally approve of a triple date window, however my assessment is for the most part guided by execution. A portion of IWC’s past triple date windows looked totally horrendous and destroyed in any case attractive pilots watches, yet I love the gap on this Parmigiani. I think the situating at 12 o’clock has a great deal to do with this, as with a day of the week opening. A pleasant touch is that the first of the month is done in red.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe’s “Delta” molded hands are finished with a rose gold framework, while the chronograph hand and sub-dial hands are done in all gold. The hands are shown improvement over anything I’d consider to be competition, an assessment which is situated in the truth of the execution yet additionally a solid individual inclination towards these Delta hands. Prior to wearing the watch, I assumed that neatness may be an issue. Shockingly, the Métrographe is exceptionally clear even in splendid conditions that can make glare a bad dream. There is likewise barely enough lume on all fours markers without the previously mentioned interruption from the substantial sub-dial lume from the active model.
Parmigiani Fleurier merits a ton of credit for the insightful revive on the dial of the Métrographe. While I can’t address things like clarity on the white dial model, the by and large overhaul is a triumph by any norm. It’s hard to adjust the dressy chronograph character, however I can’t honestly consider numerous different alternatives that do it just as this.
THE PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA MÉTROGRAPHE PF315 MOVEMENT
It’s while considering the development in the Métrographe that the acknowledgment that this is a section level Parmigiani watch is made plentifully understood. For a brand known for the absolute most delightfully completed in-house developments that skirt on masterpieces, the type PF315 utilized here accomplishes attractive competence. It’s not in every case reasonable for be decided by the overachievers in the family, however that simply is the unquestionable situation with regards to Parmigiani.
For the purpose of reference, I’d view at the PF361 development as one of their chief chronograph developments in a non-Kalpa case. An in-house, coordinated split-seconds chronograph development that works at a high-beat 5Hz done in all 18k gold scaffolds, the PF361 is an all out “power move” of a development. The watch that this development appeared in arrived in a restricted version run of 25 pieces, each valued at $135,000. Along these lines, how about we move back to the passage level PF331 utilized in the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe.
A base in-house PF331 development with a Dubois Depraz chronograph module, the PF315 is the most ideal answer for the truth that comes with the trouble in making a completely in-house chronograph development. In addition, if (and likely when) Parmigiani makes one, it will come at a value point that would far surpass what the Métrographe is focusing on. It is competent, nonetheless, working at 28,800 vph with a widely appealing 42-hour power reserve.
You can see the PF315 through the presentation caseback and keeping in mind that it’s pleasantly finished with the Parmgiani logo, Cotes de Geneve, and gold contacts, one can tell that this is a machine completed development. Once more, the champion developments made by Parmigiani are all hand-completed and the cost increment that this would include would additionally push the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe out of this cost range.
All on the whole, the PF315 is a section level development from a brand that is known for making some genuinely shocking developments. While I for one am not an in-house development perfectionist, it to some degree goes with the job while talking about Parmigiani. In any case, all elements (counting financial ones) considered, I it’s a decent compromise. One proposal I would make is that somewhat more visual energy and detail would go far, and that improvement appears to be undeniably more achievable than an absolutely new movement.
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA MÉTROGRAPHE COMPETITION
It was difficult to truly think about a watch that I would consider an immediate competitor since the Métrographe is such a specialty and explicit watch. I as a rule like to keep comparison segments somewhat more modest, yet I imagine that does an injury to the extravagance chronograph classification since there are those that are dressier than the Métrographe and those that are sportier than it. They are still competitors, however. Above all, let’s take a gander at what I’ll call the ‘usual suspects’ and the one watch that I think gets nearest to offering the style of configuration situated dress chronograph that the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe does.
THE USUAL SUSPECTS
I’ve referenced the Rolex Daytona , which is estimated at $12,400 however best of luck getting it at retail (starting at 2018, in any event). It won’t get any focuses for innovation yet the combination of brand advance, “famous” status, and amazing quality related with the Crown put this one right at the first spot on the list. I have an inclination that a Daytona purchaser generally needs a Daytona, period, and isn’t basically gauging one against a specialty, little creation watch from a brand who is known to a significantly more specialty and horologically refined crowd.
The other regular suspect is the Audemars Piguet Royak Oak Chronograph which some way or another is able to do all the while being a “protected pick” that has an unbelievable and one of a kind plan. On the other hand, at $24,500 it’s twice the cost with a decades-old non in-house, altered F. Piguet 1185 (type 2385) development that is famously exorbitant to support. Of course, probably the best arm band out there, the Genta plan, and that Big Dog status in the extravagance chronograph world all come together to make an optimistic piece that basically stands alone.
I would add the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chrongraph here, yet at $30,200 it is way out of this class, which the Royal Oak was at that point pushing the limits of.
THE CLOSEST COMPETITOR (IN MY OPINION, AT LEAST)
The Gerald Genta planned Bulgari Octo Velocissimo Chronograph is another watch that is about the subtleties that go into its plan. I consider it to be the nearest competition for the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe, really. A complex and marvelously completed case with the choice of a lovely dazzling arm band (or tie, also), the Octo inclines more towards somebody who favors sharp points and a more forceful look. All things considered, it is unmistakably dressy and refined even with a 41mm case that wears bigger because of its shape.
The Octo Velocissimo utilizes a BVL 328 development which is basically an acquired El Primero development from LVMH kin Zenith. It works at 5Hz, 36,000 vph, and gets a 50-hour power hold. It’s a strong and clearly all around viewed development that additionally fills in as an update that Bulgari is a major brand inside the umbrella of a monster combination. Toward the day’s end, the decision between the Octo Velocissimo or Métrographe comes to a draw for me, with main components being tasteful inclination or the decision between specialty/autonomous or an extravagance powerhouse.
The Bulgari Octo Velocissimo is evaluated at $9,900 on a cowhide lash and $10,400 on the phenomenal steel bracelet.
A chomped more customary and moderate than the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe and others referenced here, the Cartier Rotonde Chronograph goes for the old fashioned look in a chronograph. The rectangular pushers, crown with blue cabochon, and broad guilloche work on the dial all come together for a watch that is undeniably Cartier in its style. What’s more, that is fine as Cartier is one of the greatest worldwide names in extravagance watches and there’s no disgrace in needing to pass on this to the world.
Movement-wise the Cartier type 1904-CH MC is their workhorse programmed chronograph. It looks pleasant enough through the presentation caseback, yet it’s less all around completed when compared to the Parmigiani. A more closed up dress chronograph, the Cartier Rotonde Chronograph is evaluated at $9,050 on a cowhide strap.
The standard IWC Portugieser Chronograph is a solid match for somebody who needs a dressy chronograph yet doesn’t have any desire to address a five-figure costs. For simply over $7,000 it’s a respectable worth yet conveys generally in style yet has a fair development that IWC doesn’t try to show with a shut steel caseback. In any case, the Portugieser Chronograph Classic has the very much completed type 89361 which has the additional attribute of being a flyback chronograph.
Personally, IWC Pilot’s watches are what appeal to me most from the brand, yet this is a strong dress chronograph. The dial and case are not close to the Parmigiani Fleurier, but rather as far as development the IWC has the bit of leeway. By and large, it will engage more individuals however I sincerely believe that is on the grounds that it’s a lovely conventional watch when you compare it to different competitors I’ve referenced. Valued at $12,100, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph is basically similar cost as the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe. I know which one I’d pick.
The more modest Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph in 38mm is an inside and out remarkable watch that is again and again unreasonably cast as an “additionally ran.” GP has refined the Laureato throughout the long term, with a 904L steel case, truly noteworthy hobnail design on the dial, and by and large tender loving care. Then again, the development will exact similar complaints as the Métrographe or Royal Oak with a robust sticker price drawing closer $15,000.
The Piaget Polo S chronograph is the other pick and has the completing and quality that you’d anticipate from all the pieces I’ve referenced here. In spite of the fact that it’s been some time since I took care of it face to face, I valued the slenderness of the case and investigating it now I see that it is 11.4mm thick. The thick, unmistakable bezel gives the Polo S its own style, however the 1160P development is basically the equivalent of that in the Cartier I recently referenced, with the completing the process of being simply fair. At $12,400 it’s similar cost as the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe. With the greater part of these picks, it will come down to taste in design.
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA MÉTROGRAPHE FINAL THOUGHTS
Being the passage level watch from a brand like Parmigiani Fleurier isn’t the most fortunate situation to be in. It’s an image that requires huge exertion to completely comprehend and acknowledge, and apparently wants to be standard in one or the other deals or brand discernment. Furthermore, on the off chance that you are important for the pool that is learned about Parmigiani, you probably realize that one of their most characterizing qualities is their development wrapping up. You’ll experience that with the PF315, yet realize that you’re paying a lot for an appetizer.
If you take a gander at the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe and don’t care for the plan, at that point that is OK since it’s not for everybody. Michel Parmigiani is particular disapproved in his plan reasoning and very little dynamic in such manner is finished by committee. This is correctly why Parmigiani Fleurier has an after that comprises of such countless gatherers: on the off chance that you like it, you love it and in the event that you can bear the cost of one, you can probably bear the cost of something else. The Métrographe is an incredible passage to the brand for new gatherers but at the same time it’s a regular wear that could get a scratch or two and it won’t be the finish of the world.
Priced at $11,500 on a Hermes calfskin tie and $12,000 on the steel and titanium wristband I evaluated, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe is similarly awesome to wear all things considered to admire. parmigiani.com
>Brand: Parmigiani Fleurier
>Model: Tonda Métrographe
>Size: 40mm wide & 11.7mm thick. 46mm drag to-haul. 24mm drag width
>Would commentator by and by wear it: Yes.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Open-disapproved of gatherer who is exhausted of the standard offerings.
>Best normal for watch: Case/arm band design.
>Worst normal for watch: Movement could utilize more visual refin