The Swiss Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon watch ( initially appeared on aBlogtoWatch here ) is a particular combination of a couple of various things which helps separate it a spot from the generally packed market of top of the line sport watches. To start with, there is the exemplary Favre-Leuba brand, which is one of the numerous celebrated names from Switzerland’s history of watchmakers. Next is the Raider Harpoon’s plan, which is a cutting edge take on 1970s-period plan disrespectfulness that the first Favre-Leuba explored different avenues regarding generously at that point. Third, the Raider Harpoon utilizes a non-standard method of demonstrating the time, which is speaking to horology-buffs. So what does such add up to?
Thomas Morf – who runs Favre-Leuba today – experienced childhood in a little piece of Switzerland like all the little towns and towns where a significant number of our #1 watches are delivered. Becoming acquainted with somewhat about him encourages me to comprehend the current course of the brand, just as the way of thinking behind items like the Raider Harpoon. Morf is apparently more comfortable wearing a shirt and pants rather than the more customary business fellow clothing his watch industry partners appear to like. This makes him more natural to a Southern California fellow like me, and it comprehends the allure behind an item like the Raider Harpoon.
Thomas reveals to me that he has no close to home interest in garish things but instead, that he is the sort of fellow who likes to search out very much made “cool things.” He says this as a person in his mid 50s assuredly filling the role while wearing a white shirt with collapsed pilot shades around his collar… and expressively gesturing vivacious hands. On one wrist he wears a cowhide wristband and on the other is dark cased Raider Harpoon watch on a pleasantly maturing earthy colored calfskin strap.
Ironically, as I am tuning in to this I am wearing a similar watch on my wrist – however with my smaller wrists and in the situation as the audience in this discussion I don’t think at that point I’m pulling off the watch just as Thomas. It looks extraordinary on him, coordinates his style, and sells the possibility of the watch right away. I bring this up on the grounds that with regards to more cutting edge watches such at the Raider Harpoon, I generally prefer to ensure there is a segment out there who will look great wearing them.
Removing for a second the way that Thomas is entirely of Favre-Leuba, you can by the by see why the watch requests to him. First is the way that the “heritage” name of the brand fulfills his European-ingrained requirement for “legacy value.” A man like this is far less intrigued by new “unproven” names. Second is the strong, wistfulness roused 1970s sport plunge watch plan, which isn’t just hip from a contemporary style point of view, but at the same time is sufficiently bulky to coordinate his character. 46mm-wide watches are mainstream explicitly in light of folks like this. At last, a reliable lover of top of the line watch culture, Thomas enjoys the framework for telling the time, which makes a scholarly interest where there might not have been any before.
Favre-Leuba really makes an amazingly comparative, but more straightforward, watch compared to the Raider Harpoon in the Deep Blue assortment. The thing that matters is that while the Raider Harpoon is 46mm wide, has a helium discharge valve, is water impervious to 500m, and has the extraordinary framework for telling the time… the Deep Blue case (which is as a rule the equivalent fit as a fiddle) is 44mm wide, does not have a helium discharge valve (not that you’d truly need it), is water impervious to 300m, and has a standard methods for showing the time by means of conventional hour and moment hands.
The model variations as far as dial and case tones, just as tie/arm band combinations are indistinguishable. Indeed, in the event that you aren’t acquainted with the way that Favre-Leuba makes the Raider Harpoon and the varying Deep Blue models, the two are extremely simple to confuse with each other initially. They likewise have somewhat more than $2,000 between them in value (the Deep Blue is, obviously, the more open model). I notice this for a quite certain explanation which is in the event that you like this watch generally speaking, however feel it is excessively huge, excessively costly, or too new with regards to perusing the time, the Deep Blue model is directly for you.
Let’s re-visitation of Raider Harpoon, since the model I wore. I’ll first state that while I preferred this watch, the 46mm wide case is excessively huge for me. The issue isn’t simply the width, or the generally 18mm of case thickness, yet rather the haul to-drag distance of about 58mm. On my wrist (which is unquestionably on the more modest side), the carries stuck out past my wrist like glad horns. In the event that you have 7 inch in boundary or thin wrists, that will probably happen to you. I am not complaining about the size – since I think it looks great on the correct wrist – yet rather telling those with wrists like mine that the more modest 44mm-wide model may be a superior fit.
With that stated, Favre-Leuba isn’t going for standard allure by any means. This is the primary watch delivered by them with the extravagant time-telling framework, and it bodes well to be a smidgen more “niche” with its introduction – in any event the first run through around. Other than the size, the case is flawless looking, with a combination of current lines and those of a pretty much (elongated) pad style case in steel that would not be that strange during the 1970s. The case comes either in common or PVD-covered “gunmetal” dark steel.
While I like the shade of the gunmetal Raider Harpoon more, I lean toward the completing on the common steel one. PVD-coatings are by definition a covering, and can change the vibe of a surface. Cleaned areas look altogether too shiny for a characteristic steel finish, and the more evident brushed surface completing components catch your look in a more powerful way on the non-covered steel models. Having said that, the dark and orange-highlighted dial look improves the dim case tone, while I think the blue-dialed model looks great with one or the other case, yet it best matches to the normal steel option.
Heavy like a wrist-tank, the Raider Harpoon is a strong inclination gadget. The thick sapphire precious stone is appropriately AR-covered. Why appropriately covered you may inquire? Since Favre-Leuba did the right thing and covered the two sides of the precious stone with against intelligent material. That is the BEST method to forestall glare. The 500m water safe case has its visual strength underlined by the general plan in highlights, for example, the screw-down style bezel close to the gem. Outside of that is a moderately slim unidirectional pivoting bezel – which is effectively the most “retro” of all the equipment components. The bezel functions as planned, however doesn’t have the super exact snap position of some other very good quality plunge watches (truly a couple are twofold the cost or a greater amount of this watch). Likewise, the bezel embed is aluminum, which implies it can scratch (but on the other hand is more similar to the look the brand is going for in the Raider Harpoon).
Dual restricting crowns sit on the correct side of the case, with the lower one being utilized to change the time. The upper crown is the manual helium discharge valve – that again you’ll probably never use. Simply make certain to have it sunk while going into water (or at practically all occasions besides). The flawlessly incorporated ties come in a welcome assortment, just as the decision of a coordinating steel metal wristband. Sadly, for the time being the arm band doesn’t come in dark – which I think would have been truly cool looking.
Speaking of the arm band, it is pleasant for being generally rather basic. Favre-Leuba doesn’t get things started on plan with regards to the arm band, rather selecting to do a more retro look with a pleasant level of value. That implies strong connections, utilization of screws to make sure about the connections, a significant (not unstable – Seiko could pick up something here) deployant that is likewise not excessively thick, and a basic but rather successful diver’s expansion clasp.
The wristband even shapes simply a tad – enough to be viable. It is 24mm wide at the carries, and that limits to about 22mm where it meets the deployant catch. I do consider what others feel about the wristband. Like I stated, from the start I excused it as being on the straightforward side, however as I invested more energy taking a gander at it, I valued all the manners in which it might have gone “cheap.” And yet, it kept a decent degree of development detail while as yet attempting to be something exemplary and retro-looking. The wristband, with its serious level of connection explanation, is likewise a decent decision for those with more modest wrists.
Strap alternatives for the Raider Harpoon incorporate two cowhide ties (either a bull blood-style earthy colored or dark, with orange or blue difference sewing relying upon the tie to coordinate the dial tone) just as a custom Favre-Leuba-marked regular elastic tie. The last is the most ideal decision for the person who is really going to get wet (counting sweat-soaked) with this watch on.
Finally, we approach the subject of the way wherein the watch demonstrates the time, just as the development that powers it. For the last point, the programmed mechanical development starts life as a base Swiss Sellita SW200. It is later adjusted with the “Favre-Leuba hour sign system” (as of now Favre-Leuba for reasons unknown doesn’t have a name for the framework, and as I would like to think this framework unquestionably needs a title). The subsequent programmed development is known as the Favre-Leuba type FL 301, and it works at 4Hz (28,800bph) with 38 hours of intensity hold. The marginally lower than foreseen power save is likely an outcome of the development driving a ring for the hours instead of a hand (which would be lighter in weight).
It pauses for a minute taking a gander at the dial for a great many people to acknowledge there is something “different” going on. In any event, when given some an ideal opportunity to think about the dial, numerous individuals don’t realize how to understand it (which I discovered to be an intriguing examination). The dial idea anyway is fairly straightforward, yet the framework is unforeseen by they way it works. By and large I love the framework, yet it takes some becoming acclimated to as you need to re-train the request wherein your mind is acquainted with perusing time-related information.
The time-just dial functions in that capacity; in the focal point of the dial is a little turning plate with openings in it and a little white pointer. That (frequently mixed up as the hour hand) is the seconds hand. Outside of it is the more extended jewel shape-tipped hand which is the minutes hand. It focuses to two things, and this is the place where the framework makes itself interesting.
The minute hand first focuses to an appealing cleaned and applied moment marker (which looks dubiously like an hour marker), and second to the hour pointer ring. Indeed, the hours are shown on a ring, however what makes the watch perfect is that you read the hours at the very position that the moment hand is. In this manner, as the moment hand moves, so does the hour circle, yet at a more slow rate. This sharp arrangement is something I initially found in an idea watch by Martin Braun, however I’ve never seen it industrialized before Favre-Leuba.
The reason you need to re-train your mind is on the grounds that it might be said, the framework on the Raider Harpoon expects you to peruse the time in reverse. Ordinarily on a watch you would initially take a gander at the hour hand and afterward at the moment hand. This is on the grounds that your cerebrum needs to know the hour first, and afterward the moment – this is normal since it is the means by which we request time data in our psyches. The Raider Harpoon on different hands requests that we do the inverse. By ideals of the plan, you need to initially take a gander at the moment hand since it is expected to highlight the right hour. Hence, the watch requests that you read the moment and afterward the hour, which then should be switched in your brain. Obviously you could take a gander at the moment hand, at that point to the hour hand, and afterward to the moment hand again…. however, the fact of the matter is basically that perusing the time this way is extraordinary, and for certain individuals will pause for a minute longer than the conventional hour and moment hand system.
With that stated, I don’t need to excuse the way in which the Raider Harpoon shows the time as a less effective curiosity presently. While in numerous applications the framework probably won’t offer a reasonable advantage over a conventional a few hand dial, I think in certain settings this hand framework is prevalent. In jumping for instance the moment hand is regularly what one needs to take a gander at preceding the hour hand. I figure time and experimentation will reveal to us where something like the Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon is the favored choice.
What energized me the most about this time framework is the manner by which Favre-Leuba will proceed to adjust and play with it. In the event that I was in Mr. Morf’s position, I would arrange steady plan concentrates on the best way to make more refined game watches, or even dress-style watches with this hand design. For instance, one can guarantee that on the Raider Harpoon the hour ring is hard to comprehend since it would appear that a fixed part ring in white. The explanation it is white is on the grounds that it is in radiant material for obscurity seeing, yet there is a highlight pointing out somewhat more this component. There may even be an occasion to plan another circle under it that can feature the specific “active” hour that the moment hand is at present hauling behind. I’m saying that the specific time demonstrating framework here is strong and intriguing enough for loads of future development.
As referenced over, the Raider Harpoon is a specialty request item, however it doesn’t do not have an enthusiastic segment of purchasers. On the off chance that you resemble Thomas and like strong, marginally retro, with a memorable name on the dial, and precisely fascinating game watches, at that point you also may burrow the Raider Harpoon. It isn’t even the most fascinating Favre-Leuba underway right now – that honor probably goes to the Favre-Leuba Raider Bivouac 9000, which has an underlying gauge (at a “reasonable” price).
In today’s watch market where brands should be intriguing, renowned, particular, and intense, Favre-Leuba is hitting a pleasant step. Emphatically upheld and competently staffed, Favre-Leuba is accessible both in stores and on the web (in any event in certain business sectors, for example, the USA). It isn’t the brand for everybody, except with its reasonable heading and character it is the kind of brand the watch business needs today. The Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon watch is valued somewhere in the range of $4,600 and $5,150 relying upon the lash and case shading combination. The two tried models are estimated at $5,000 for the PVD dark case on a cowhide tie and $5,150 for the normal steel case on the coordinating steel arm band. favre-leuba.com
>Model: Raider Harpoon
>Price: $4,600 – $5,150
>Size: 46mm wide
>Would commentator by and by wear it: Yes.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Thick-wristed retro-sport watch sweetheart that needs some mechanical particularity to give their watches a character they feel an extravagance watch needs before purchase.
>Best normal for watch: Lots of character in an intriguing watch from a truly memorable brand (but resurrected as of late). Novel framework to tell the time stays fun and fascinating – however for sure peculiar. Tones are appealing given the subject. Welcome use of AR-covering on the two sides of the crystal.
>Worst normal for watch: Rather enormous situation (when it doesn’t in essence need a bigger case) makes it more uncertain for wide allure. Excessively simple for learners to not see how to peruse the time without clarification. Time sign framework requires a psychological change period.